An existing house on a small acreage may offer comfortable living conditions at a moderate cost. Such a house may be generally adequate, but to meet your needs and desires it will probably require some remodeling. Perhaps it is old and run down, too small, or otherwise not quite what your family wants. Remodeling may be the answer.

Retaining an existing house has real advantages. It may save money, because rebuilding is expensive. Remodeling is also a conservation measure, for it doesn't use all new building materials. If the house has a unique and desirable character, saving this example of our architectural heritage is another plus.

But every existing house isn't worth remodeling. How do you evaluate the house, and how do you assess your needs and plan to satisfy them?

Determining whether a home is worth remodeling requires a thorough inspection and analysis. Besides your own observations, professional help is usually necessary in some respects. Regardless of who performs the actual evaluation, these points should be useful to the homeowner:

The Foundation. The foundation is vital because it supports the entire structure. Any foundation failure may distort the house frame, resulting in problems with doors and windows, loosening of siding and interior finish, and cracks that allow air to blow through the house.

Most foundation walls of poured concrete have hairline cracks that have little effect on the structure. However, large open cracks indicate a failure that may get progressively worse, so some professional guidance may be in order. Crumbling mortar in brick or stone foundations can be repaired, but if most of the mortar has deteriorated, a major repair is required. Complete replacement of the foundation may also be necessary.

Localized failure or minor settling may be corrected by releveling beams or floor joists.

If pillars are used under the house, or under porches, check to see that they are sound. Sometimes replacement is more difficult than it appears.

Standard Wood Frame. The building frame should be examined for distortion from failure of the foundation or from inadequate framing. General condition may not be too apparent, but key points should be checked for any damage from decay and insects. Instructions for recognizing such damage are given later.

Floor supports are easily observed in a basement, but may be difficult to check in a crawl space. In a basement, wood posts should be examined for decay at the juncture with the floor.

Girders resting on these posts should be checked for sag by sighting along the girder. Some sag is quite common under heavy loads such as bathtubs, heavy appliances, or partitions. This sag usually affects appearance more than strength, but it can be critical if the floor above slopes noticeably.

Sill plates or joists and headers rest on top of the foundation and thus are exposed to moisture from the concrete. Wherever possible, examine these contact points for decay and insect damage. If the basement or crawl space seems very damp, the entire floor framing system should be examined.

Sag in floor joists is not critical unless it is readily apparent. A more common problem is to note springiness as you walk across the floor. The floor can be firmed up by adding extra joists or girders to increase stiffness.

A point of particular concern in the floor system is framing around stair openings. Check floors around the opening for levelness. Where floors are sagging, the framing should be leveled and reinforced.

Wall framing usually has more than adequate strength, but may become distorted if the foundation settles too much or floor framing is inadequate. Check doors and windows for squareness to make sure they do not bind. Also check for sag in headers over wide window openings or wide openings between rooms. Headers that sag noticeably will have to be replaced.

Look at the roof for sag at the ridge, in the rafters, or sheathing between rafters. If the ridge line is not straight or the roof appears wavy, some repair may be necessary.

Siding, Windows, Roof. Exterior wood on a house will last for many years with reasonable care. Paint failure is often caused by excessive moisture, but it may also result from poor surface preparation, poor paint, improper application or incompatible successive coatings. Regardless of the cause, you may have to completely remove the existing paint before repainting.

In examining the siding, look for space between horizontal siding boards by sighting along the wall. Where warped boards leave big gaps, new siding may be required; however, if boards are not badly warped, renailing may solve the problem. Check the ends of siding boards for decay where two boards butt together, at corners, and around window and door frames.

Good shingle siding appears as a perfect mosaic; worn shingles appear ragged, and individual shingles often are broken, warped, and upturned. New siding will be required if these shingles are badly weathered or worn.

Cracks in brick or stone veneer can be grouted and joints repointed, but large or numerous cracks may be unsightly even after repairs. To prevent water from entering masonry walls, examine the flashing at all projecting trim, copings, sills, and intersections with the roof. Plan to repair any of these places where flashing is not provided or where it needs repair.

Check all windows for tightness of fit and examine the sash and sill for decay. Weather-stripping can better seal the window, but if the sash or sill is decayed, that part must be replaced. If you plan a replacement, however, measure the window and determine if it is a standard size. If not, the opening will have to be reframed or a custom sash will have to be made—both of which are expensive.

In cold climates all windows should be double glazed or have storm windows. Again, if the windows are not a standard size, making up storm windows may be expensive.

Severe roof leaks should be obvious from damage inside the house. But general condition of a roof that is apparently not leaking will be more difficult to determine. If possible, look carefully in the attic for any signs of problems.

On the roof, scrutinize the condition of the shingles. Asphalt shingles show deterioration by becoming brittle and losing surface granules. More important is wear in the narrow grooves between the two shingles, which may extend completely through to the roof boards. Where such signs of wear exist, new roofing is required. Wood shingles need to be replaced when numerous individual shingles are broken, warped, or upturned.

Built-up roofing on flat or low-sloped roofs shows wear by bare spots in the surfacing and separations and breaks in the felt. Bubbles, blisters, or soft spots also indicate the need for major repairs. Examine the condition of the flashing; corroded flashing should be replaced.

The Interior. Interior surfaces may have deteriorated due to wear, distortion of the structure, or the presence of moisture.

Wood floors should be checked for buckling or cupping of boards. If cupping or buckling is not too severe and boards have not separated excessively, the floor may be returned to good condition by refinishing. But first, be sure the floor is thick enough to withstand sanding.

Floors with resilient tile should be examined for loose tile, broken corners, cracks between tile, and chipped edges. If any tile must be replaced, the entire floor will probably have to be redone because new tile will seldom match.

Plaster on walls and ceilings almost always has some minor cracks, which can be patched. If large cracks or holes are numerous, a new wall or ceiling covering may be required. Bulging or loose plaster also indicates the need for new walls or ceiling.

If walls have more than two or three layers of wallpaper, the wallpaper should be removed before applying new paper or paint. Paint also may have built up to excessive thickness on walls and ceilings, or be badly chipped. In either case, complete removal of old paint is required, so application of a new panel material may be a better solution.

Trim can be refinished. However, if the old trim is badly chipped or checked, the finish will have to be completely removed. Ornately carved designs are the most difficult to refinish even though they may provide the most rewarding results. If replacement of some trim is required, new sections can be custom-made. However, this may be costly.

Decay and Insect Damage. Look for decay in any part of the house where wood has remained wet for a time, such as close to the ground. Decayed wood can be identified by its loss of sheen, abnormal color, and sometimes fungal growth on the surface. A test for extent of decay is to prod the wood with a sharp tool to see if it mars easily. Pry out a splinter. If toughness has been reduced, the wood may break across the grain with little splintering and lift out with little resistance. Sound wood will lift out as one or two relatively long silvers, and breaks are splintery.

Termite damage is sometimes harder to spot. Look on foundation walls for earthen tubes. The tubes are evidence of subterranean termites, which use them as runways from soil to the wood above. These termites follow the grain of the wood as they eat their way through, leaving galleries surrounded by an outer shell of sound wood.

By contrast, nonsubterranean termites, which are found only in warm coastal areas, eat freely across the wood grain. The nonsubterranean type requires no connection to the ground.

If any termites are in evidence, get the opinion of a professional exterminator.

Insulation. Older houses are often drafty and cold, but insulation, storm windows and doors, and weather-stripping can help make them warm and comfortable.

First, check the ceiling for insulation. If there is little or none, your first priority would be to add ceiling insulation. Ask your local utility company for guidance on how much to add, as well as for general guidelines on energy conservation. But as insulation is added, good attic ventilation becomes critical. Floor insulation is also a good investment.

Storm windows help by reducing heat loss through glassed areas by up to one half, and also reduce air leakage around the windows. Weather-stripping doors and windows, as well as caulking all cracks, costs little for materials but does require considerable labor.

After these simple corrections are considered, the next step would be the walls. Where insulation is added to the walls, a greater expense and effort is involved because this must be professionally applied. The results may be worth it, however, in comfort. In areas of cold winters, some precautions are necessary to prevent moisture problems in the walls.

Moisture Control. When moisture-laden air can leak through cracks to the outside of an old house, moisture is seldom a problem. But as the house is tightened by weatherstripping and storm windows and doors, the air is no longer carrying off that moisture. A vapor barrier, placed on the warm side of the wall, prevents that moisture from simply moving into the walls and condensing there as it meets the cold outside wall. Lack of a vapor barrier commonly results in exterior paint peeling problems.

Several coats of oil-base paint on plaster provide some resistance to water vapor. If relative humidity in the house is kept low, this paint may be an adequate vapor barrier. Additional vapor resistance can be added by applying a highly moisture-resistant paint or vinyl-coated wallpaper. Where new panel material is planned as interior finish, a good vapor barrier such as polyethelene film can be placed over the plaster first.

Crawl space moisture often migrates up through walls and living space. Moisture levels under the house can be reduced by good ventilation, but a vapor barrier ground cover is even more effective because it prevents ground moisture from coming up into the crawl space.

Utilities; Heating. Utility systems have generally been improved in recent years, so the older home may require updating. Of course, some rural homes, particularly those that have been vacant for years, may have no central heating, plumbing, or electrical system. This should not be a deterrent from remodeling the house that is structurally sound.

In this time of concern for saving fuel, the efficiency of the heating system compares in importance to insulation for the house. Utility companies can advise you on this. If the heating plant is quite old, perhaps a new one will save enough fuel to pay for itself. Observations can be made of the general condition of the furnace or boiler, but professional help should be sought for a thorough inspection.

Where firewood is available on your acreage, it can be considered for heating or at least as a secondary source. Wood-burning units are available that can be attached to the furnace, and many wood-burning stoves are on the market. Fireplaces are good for removing the chill during mild weather. However, in cold weather they generally draw warm air from other rooms and put an added load on a central heating system.

Plumbing; Electricity. Check several faucets to see if the flow is adequate and there is good pressure. For a private water source, the gage on the pressure tank should read a minimum of 20 pounds, preferably 40 to 50 pounds. Also have any private well tested for purity.

Look for leaks in the water system. Rust or white or greenish crusting on pipe or joints may indicate a leak. Check for clogged drain lines by flushing the toilet and observing any sluggishness. Also run water for a few minutes to determine if the drain lines are clogged. Where a new drainage field is needed, some codes require percolation tests of the soil.

Electrical service should be at least 100 amperes for a moderate three-bedroom house, and probably 200 amperes for a larger house or if air-conditioning is included as an electrical load. New service with a larger capacity will be a major expense.

Some wiring is usually exposed in the attic or basement where it can be checked. If cable insulation is deteriorated, damaged, brittle, or crumbly, or if armored cable or conduit is badly rusted, wiring should be replaced. Also notice if there is at least one electrical outlet on each wall of a room and if ceiling lights have wall switches. If these are lacking, consider the expense of bringing the wiring up to current standards.

General Considerations

Consider the arrangement of the house and the changes that may be required for convenience. Look at the rooms in terms of furniture placement and adequate circulation space. Also consider storage requirements. Many older homes have few, if any, closets. Do not be bound to traditional uses of rooms, but look at spaces in terms of your living requirements. Sometimes moving a door or eliminating a partition may do wonders for livability. However, keep in mind that partitions may be supporting the floor or roof above, and that changes will add to cost.

Appearance of a house is largely a personal matter, but some general guidelines can be given. The well-designed older home often has a desirable character and changes should be kept to a minimum under this condition.

Unity of design is generally a governing factor. Windows and trim should be of one type and in keeping with the house's style. Porches and garages should blend with the house rather than appear as attachments. Too many types of siding, or ornamentation that appears stuck on as an afterthought, may present a confused appearance. Also consider what can be done with paint and landscaping. No house looks good in a rundown condition or with unkept grounds.

Summing Up. The first two items mentioned, foundation and framing, are the most critical. If the foundation is good and framing is generally square, the house is probably worth remodeling. However, if numerous other repairs are required, or the house generally does not meet your needs, remodeling may be questionable. In the final analysis, make a detailed cost study or get a contractor's bid to help you decide if the remodeled house is worth the cost.

Harmon-y in a Double Home

By Jimmy Bonner

Leon and Mildred Harmon began dreaming of a country home back in 1938 after they were married. And after 39 years of city living they finally made one—by putting two houses together.

Their unusual country home is near Water Valley in Yalobusha County, Mississippi. The couple joined two houses built in the early 1930's that had been on the farm of Mrs. Harmon's mother.

The Harmons, who are both retired Monroe, Louisiana, schoolteachers but originally from rural north Mississippi, had dreamed for years of a home back in the country with plenty of room. So last year they left the city and returned to Mississippi.

"Leon and I both wanted the privacy and peacefulness that country living offers," said Mrs. Harmon. "And we wanted our grandchildren, who live in large cities, to have a chance to visit a place that hasn't been changed by man. Out here, we can see nature at its best—trees, birds, squirrels, fish and all kinds of wildlife. There's just nothing like it."

The Harmons put together their home during a period of about five years, working during weekend trips from Louisiana. By the summer of 1977, they were able to move in and add the finishing touches.

A self-trained carpenter, Mr. Harmon connected the two houses himself and did all the carpentry work and most of the other work needed. Mrs. Harmon helped with the interior decorating and landscaping, with assistance from Mrs. Mamie Shields, Extension home economist in Yalobusha County. The two houses combined gave them nine rooms and about 3,200 square feet of floor space.

Mr. Harmon estimates the total cost of building the house at about half the price of a comparably sized and equipped new home, or about $15 per square foot. As an added advantage, the house reflects their own taste in design and decoration.

The house is completed now, but the work hasn't stopped.

"We plan to have azaleas and a nature trail in the woods surrounding the house," said Mr. Harmon, who enjoys fishing and hunting on their land. "We also will have a garden and orchard."

Adapting to a new, quiet country life hasn't come without problems, said Mrs. Harmon. "We miss the shopping conveniences and the culture of the city," she said. "It also took quite some time to complete the house. But we would do it all over again because we enjoy the work and living in the country."

Assess Family Needs

Your present family needs go beyond the number of bedrooms in the house. Consider your living habits, work, relaxation, and entertainment; and think of the needs of each in terms of space, privacy, storage, access to other areas of the house, and comfort level required for each activity.

Entertaining large groups means a need for large rooms. If you frequently have overnight guests, a spare bedroom may be important. If you plan to raise your own food, the kitchen and utility area should provide space for the processing involved, and storage of canned or frozen food.

Each family is unique. These are only suggestions that may stimulate your thoughts in assessing present family needs.

All families change and consequently family needs will not be the same in the future. A young, growing family undoubtedly will need more space in the future. Look at expansion possibilities. Consider using presently unfinished space such as attic, basement, or attached garage.

Generally there should be room for an addition to a rural house. The main thing is to plan such an expansion or addition at the time remodeling is being done. The heating system and electrical service should be sized for add-ons if expansion is planned. Rough plumbing may also be planned for expansion.

If your family is presently large, it will decrease in size as children establish their own homes. Perhaps see if an area of the house can be closed off when unused, but be available for guests. Or could a part of the house be converted to an apartment for rental? By making the division between units with removable panels, the house could be changed either way as needed by your family. Of course, the feasibility of this arrangement depends on being in a location where there is a demand for such rentals.

Getting Ideas and Help

Your local library should have books and periodicals on ideas for remodeling as well as how-to-do-it booklets. Many of these can also be purchased at newsstands.

The lumberyard or building supply dealer has many free brochures on application of various building products, and in larger stores you may find slide-tape instructions on how to accomplish specific aspects of remodeling. County Extension offices have samples of available government publications.

State Agricultural Extension offices are usually located at the state university and have a professional staff to advise the homeowner who is considering remodeling.

For the house that has historical or significant architectural interest, specific assistance is available in most states from the state preservation officer.

Services of an architect may be a good investment where extensive remodeling is planned or where the house has particular architectural significance. A good architect can assure satisfactory results as well as control costs through good planning. Education and experience requirements for licensing architects are quite stringent, so technical competence is usually assured.

The best way to locate a good architect is through references from acquaintances. Another possible source is through observing work that you like and finding out who the architect was. Where an architect must simply be picked at random, ask to see examples of his work and follow up on references of previous clients. Regardless of how the architect is selected, have a written contract with a clear understanding of responsibilities of both parties.

Remodeling contractors will generally work with you in inspecting the house to determine what needs to be done. Many will give free estimates that can be used in determining the feasibility of remodeling. Some contractors provide a planning service. As with the architect, the best source for finding a contractor is through recommendations of acquaintances. References of satisfied customers should also be checked out.

A possible source of contractors is the National Home Improvement Council, 11 East 44th Street, New York, N.Y. 10017, which can refer you to local members. However the selection is made, a written agreement can save a lot of misunderstanding.

Finance, Construction

Conventional as well as government-insured loans are available through banks and savings and loan companies. Longterm mortgages similar to new house financing are available for major remodeling jobs. It may be possible to extend or refinance a present mortgage.

Home improvement loans can be obtained for less extensive remodeling. They generally must be paid off in 10 years or less.

It may be best to discuss possibilities with several loan companies for a broad understanding of options.

Federal low-interest loans are available to elderly and low-income people. Check with the local Federal Housing Authority for requirements. The Farm and Rural Development Administration also makes loans for home improvements in rural areas.

To accomplish the actual construction you have the option of hiring a contractor, doing the work yourself, or a combination of these two. Much depends on your abilities, available time, and extent of work required.

Hiring a contractor does offer some advantages. The work can be completed more quickly by an experienced crew working full time. Financing may be more easily arranged under these conditions, and you can be enjoying your completed house at a much earlier date.

Do-It-Yourself. It may be quite feasible to do much of the construction yourself. You will have to evaluate your own abilities and make the final determination.

There are some precautions to take if you plan to do all of the work. Projects go very slowly when worked by one individual in his spare time. If the house is to be occupied immediately or at the earliest possible moment, do the necessary items at once and plan to work in "projects" with a breather space between them. Nobody wants to live in a mess continually and nobody can work continuously without risking having the project "go sour."

Be as realistic as possible. It will increase enjoyment of doing the work and satisfaction with the finished home. And, finally, realize that your ideas may change.

A Personal Experience

By Richard A. Biggs

Having grown up on a family farm, I knew that when I chose a place of my own it would have to be in the country. When you're used to the sight of a fox darting across a snowy, moonlit landscape, or the sweet aroma of new hay being packed away in the barn, or the sound of frogs croaking at the arrival of spring, it is simply impossible to consider any other way of life.

Soon after we were married, Nancy and I had the opportunity to purchase an old house and a few acres. The house had not been cared for properly for about 15 years, and needless to say, was in rather poor condition. There was no heating or septic system, the water pipes had all burst during previous winters, only three electrical outlets worked, windows had been broken, and the front porch floor had rotted into oblivion. The lawn had become a tall pasture and the shrub border consisted of lilacs supported primarily by honeysuckle, brambles, and poison ivy.

In thinking back, I believe the main reason we fell in love with this place was because it had been neglected so long. We realized that every single project we undertook would be a fantastic improvement. By squinting our eyes very hard, we could picture what the house and lawn must have looked like at one time, and we became determined to bring it back to life again.

Three years went by while we both worked to save money for the much needed remodeling. On weekends we would drive up to our "new" home and work out in the yard. At one point, I recall thinking that maybe we ought to slow down a bit, as there wouldn't be much left to do when we actually moved in. What a joke! (We've lived in the house for six years now, and I've come to the conclusion that we'll never really finish restoring the place.)

At the end of our three-year wait and save period, we decided it was foolish to delay remodeling any longer. The cost of building materials was rising much faster than our savings balance!

We contacted a local builder who gave us much needed advice on soundness of the structure, major jobs that must be done, and approximate cost. Nancy drew up a rough plan of the changes and additions we desired, and my father, being an architect, drew up the final plans.

Saturday Meetings

To help keep remodeling costs down, our builder agreed to meet us each Saturday morning and advise on how and what to start removing. This consisted of such jobs as tearing out walls, small closets, and the four brick chimney flues. These various tasks took several months, and finally we were ready for the carpenters, electrician, plumber, roof man, and heating system installers.

Before long we had a five-zone heating system, new electrical wiring, a septic system where the garden used to be, insulation and storm windows installed, a new front porch, and new wallboard tacked over the existing horsehair plaster mix.

Unfortunately, things did not go exactly as we had anticipated, and our remodeling costs began to soar way over the initial estimate.

When the roof man came to repair broken and missing portions of our slate roof, he found that each slate had weathered so much that it was impossible to replace one without splintering each surrounding one. Naturally, the only solution was to install an entire new roof.

On another occasion, we accidentally discovered a large colony of termites when I fell through the kitchen floor. This led to a rather extensive wood replacement bill.

The major remodeling took four months and we were finally ready to move in. There were still several inconveniences to contend with such as the eight-foot hole in the wall where the fireplace would eventually go. Fortunately it was springtime and these conditions were corrected by mid-summer.

We have been here for six years now and have found that this particular abode is not always the "dream house in the country" we first envisioned.

Our white frame house sits on top of the windiest hill in the area and heating costs are phenomenal. We thought we had taken enough heat conservation measures, but it turns out we were sadly mistaken. Additional insulation, plastic over the storm windows, and 100 pine seedling as a future wind break all help, but we still have a long way to go.

Termites have been a constant problem, and after unsuccessful trench and treating of the house myself, we finally had a professional exterminator in. We still have termites in the outbuildings that will have to be controlled this spring.

4-Year Paint Job

The idea of living in a large frame house, with various shingle designs and intricate scroll work, appealed to me until I started painting the outside. It took four summers to scrape, sand, and put three coats of paint on the entire house. When I finally finished the last side, the first side had already begun to peel.

Our driveway is about 1/4 mile long and consists of dirt, rocks, and gullies. It has gotten to the point that when it rains, friends call first to check on our driveway condition before they come to visit.

When you live in an old house surrounded by fields of wheat and corn you have to be prepared for occasional unwanted visitors. During our first winter, a rather large rat decided to spend the cold months with us. After several unsuccessful nights of trap setting, and Nancy's firm decision that it was either the rat or her, I set out a poison bait.

According to the directions, the rat was supposed to go outside to expire. Unfortunately he didn't read the directions and it took several weeks and many cans of air freshener before our living room was enjoyable again.

While there have been several disheartening experiences in our "new" home, the happy times far outnumber the unpleasant ones. Each year we add a few more plants to the landscape, finish off another room in the house, add a bit of gravel to the driveway, and harvest a little more fruit from our young orchard.

Occasionally, we even have time to stand back and admire our home and realize that we have something very special indeed.

Bob Bergland

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