Properly designed, constructed, and arranged horse buildings and equipment give increased animal comfort and performance, greater efficiency in the use of feed, and less expenditure of labor in the care of horses. Also, attractive barns add to the beauty of the landscape. In serving these purposes, barns need not be elaborate or expensive.

Buildings

The primary reasons for having horse buildings are (1) to provide a place in which to confine horses and store feed and tack and (2) to modify the environment by controlling temperature, humidity; and other factors.

Types and sizes of horse barns

Needs for housing horses and storage of materials, vary according to the intended use of the buildings. Broadly speaking, horse barns are designed to serve either (1) small horse establishments that have one to a few animals, (2) large horse breeding establishments, or (3) riding, training, and boarding stables.

Various types and sizes of stalls and sheds are used in horse barns. However, in all types except the breeding shed, ceilings should be 9 feet high and doors should be 8 feet high and 4 feet wide. The breeding shed should have a ceiling 15 to 20 feet high and a door wide enough to permit entrance of vehicles.

The recommended plans for different kinds of horse barns are as follows:

Small horse establishments.—These horse barns are for housing pleasure horses or ponies or raising a few foals. Box stalls should be 12 feet square and tie stalls should be 5 feet wide and 10 or 12 feet long.

Build the stalls in a row and provide a combination tack and feed room for units with one or two stalls. Use separate tack and feed rooms for units with three or more stalls. Generally, not more than a 1-month supply of feed is stored at a time. The use of all-pelleted feed lessens storage space requirements.

Large horse-breeding establishments.—Large establishments need specially designed buildings for different purposes. They are as follows:

(1) Broodmare and foaling barn.—This can be a rectangular building either (a) with a central aisle and a row of stalls along each side or (b) of the "island" type with two rows of stalls back to back surrounded by an alley or runway. Most broodmare stalls are 12 feet square, although they may be up to 16 feet square. A stall 16 feet square is desirable for foaling. A broodmare barn needs an office for records; toilet facilities; hot water supply; veterinary supply room; tack room; and storage space for hay, bedding, and grain.

(2) Stallion barn.—This barn provides quarters for one or more stallions. It should have a small tack and equipment room, and it may or may not have feed storage. The stalls should be 14 feet square.

Provide a paddock near the barn or, if possible, adjacent to it. The paddock can be any shape but each side should be at least 300 feet long.

(3) Barren mare barn.—Use an open shed or rectangular building that has a combination rack and trough down the center or along the wall. Provide storage space for hay, grain, and bedding. Allow each animal 150 square feet of space.

(4) Weanling and yearling quarters.—Either an open shed or a barn with stalls may be used. Both weanlings and yearlings may be kept in the same building, but different age and sex groups should be kept apart. When stalls are used, two weanlings or two yearlings may be kept together. Stalls should be 10 feet square.

(5) Breeding shed.—This should be a large, roofed enclosure that has a laboratory for the veterinarian, hot water facilities, and stalls for preparing mares for breeding and for holding foals. The shed should be 24 feet square.

(6) Isolation quarters.—These quarters are for sick animals and animals new to the farm. Use a small barn that has feed and water facilities and an adjacent paddock. Stalls should be 12 feet square.

Riding, training, and boarding stables.—For this purpose, the quarters may consist of (1) stalls constructed back to back in the center of the barn with an indoor ring around the stalls, (2) stalls built around the sides of the barn with the ring in the center, or (3) stalls on either side of a hallway or alleyway and the ring outdoors. Box stalls should be 10 to 12 feet square and tie stalls should be 5 feet wide and 10 to 12 feet long.

Environmental control

Animals perform better and require less feed if they are raised under ideal conditions of temperature, humidity, and ventilation. Environmental control is of particular importance in horse barn construction because many horses spend most of the time in a stall. The investment in environmental control facilities must be balanced against the expected increased returns because there is a point where further expenditures for environmental control will not increase returns sufficiently to justify added cost.

Before the building is designed, it is necessary to know how much heat and moisture a horse produces. Body heat production varies according to body weight, rate of feeding, environmental conditions, and degree of activity. Under average conditions, a 1,000-pound horse produces about 1,790 British thermal units (B.t.u.) per hour, and a 1,500-pound horse about 2,450 B.t.u. per hour. A horse breathes into the air approximately 17.5 pounds, or 2.1 gallons, of moisture per day.

Until more experimental information is available, the following environmental control recommendations, based on confinement systems used for other classes of animals, may be followed.

Temperature.—A range of 45° to 75° F. is satisfactory, with 55° considered best. Until a newborn foal is dry, it should be warmed to 75° to 80°. This can be done with a heat lamp.

Humidity.—A range of 50 to 75 percent relative humidity is acceptable with 60 percent preferred.

Ventilation.—The barn should have as little moisture and odor as possible, and it should be free from drafts. In a properly ventilated barn, the ventilation system should provide 60 cubic feet per minute (c.f.m.) for each 1,000 pounds of horse in winter and 160 c.f.m. per 1,000 pounds of horse in summer. In summer, satisfactory ventilation usually can be achieved by opening barn doors and by installing hinged walls or panels near the ceiling that swing open.

Requisites of horse barns

Whether a new horse layout is built or an old one is altered, all buildings, fences, corrals, and trees should be placed according to a master plan, for once established, they usually are difficult and expensive to move. The arrangement should make the best possible use of land and should require little walking by attendants when caring for horses.

All horse barns should meet the following requisites:

Accessibility.—Barns should be on an all-weather roadway or lane to facilitate the use of horses, delivery of feed and bedding, and removal of manure.

Dryness.—Barns should be on high ground so water will drain away from them.

Expandable design.—Barns should be designed so they are easy to expand if and when the time comes. Often a building can be lengthened provided no other structures or utilities interfere.

Water and electricity.—Water and electricity should be available and convenient to use.

Controlled environment.—Barns should be built to modify winter and summer temperatures, maintain acceptable humidity and ventilation, minimize stress on the horses' nerves, and protect horses from rain, snow, sun, and wind.

Reasonable cost.—Initial cost is important but durability and maintenance should be considered, as well as such intangible values as pride and satisfaction in the buildings and advertising value.

Adequate space.—Too little space may jeopardize the health and well-being of horses, but too much space means unnecessary expense.

Storage areas.—Storage space for feed, bedding, and tack should be provided in the building where they are used.

Attractiveness.—An attractive horse barn increases the sale value of the property. A horse barn will have aesthetic value if it has good proportions and is in harmony with the natural surroundings.

Minimum fire risk.—The use of fire resistant materials gives added protection to horses. Also, fire retarding paints and sprays may be used.

Safety.—Projections that might injure horses should be removed. Feeding and watering equipment should be arranged so attendants need not walk behind horses.

Labor saving construction.—This requisite is a must in any commercial horse establishment. Also, where horses are kept for pleasure, unnecessary labor should be eliminated in feeding, cleaning, and handling.

Healthful living conditions.—Healthy horses are better performers; therefore, barns should be easy to keep clean so they will provide healthful living conditions.

Rodent and bird control.—Feed and tack storage areas should be rodent and bird proof.

Suitable corrals and paddocks.—Horse barns should have well-drained, safe, fenced corrals or paddocks adjacent to them. If this is not possible, the corral or paddock should be nearby.

Flexibility.—Possible changes in use make it desirable for horse barns to be as flexible as possible, even to the point that they can be cheaply and easily converted into cabins, garages, storage buildings, or buildings for other uses. Also, for suburbanites and renters, permanent, portable barns are advantageous.

Materials

When building materials for horse barns are bought, the factors to be considered are initial cost, durability and maintenance, attractiveness, and fire resistance.

Some of the materials available and being used are wood, including plywood; metal; masonry, including concrete, concrete block, cinder, pumice block, brick, and stone; and plastics. Also, preengineered and prefabricated horse barns are being used more often, especially on smaller horse establishments.

Complete working drawings may be obtained through county agricultural agents or from extension agricultural engineers at most State agricultural colleges. There is usually a small charge. When asking for working drawings, specify Plan No. 5838, "Riding Horse Barn."

If working drawings of this plan are not available in your State, write to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Agricultural Engineering Research Division, Plant Industry Station, Beltsville, Md. 20705. The U.S. Department of Agriculture does not distribute drawings but will direct you to a State that does distribute them.

Feed and Water Equipment

The design of feed and water equipment should fill the basic need for simple and effective equipment with which to provide hay, concentrates, minerals, and water without waste or hazard to the horse. Whenever possible, for convenience and safety, feed and water equipment should be located so it can be filled without the caretaker entering the stall or corral.

Feed and water equipment may be built-in or detached. Because specialty feed and water equipment is more sanitary, flexible, and suitable, many horsemen favor it over old-style wood mangers and concrete or steel tanks. Bulk-tank feed storage may be used to advantage on large horse establishments to eliminate sacks, lessen rodent and bird problems, and make it possible to obtain feed at lower prices by ordering large amounts.

The kind, size, and location of the most common equipment used to hold concentrates, hay, minerals, and water are as follows:

Concentrates.—Pail, tub, or box.

(1) A pail or tub can be made of metal, plastic, or rubber. Usually it has screw eyes and hooks or snaps so it can be suspended. The capacity should be 16 to 20 quarts for horses and 14 to 16 quarts for ponies.

In a stall, the pail or tub should be at the front of the stall. The height should be two-thirds the height of the animal at the withers, or 38 to 42 inches for horses and 28 to 32 inches for ponies.

In a corral, put the tub or pail along a fence line and at the same height as in a stall.

For sanitary reasons removable concentrate containers are preferable so they can be easily and frequently cleaned. This is especially important after feeding a wet mash.

(2) A wooden box for horses should be 12 to 16 inches wide, 24 to 30 inches long, and 8 to 10 inches deep. A box for ponies should be 10 to 12 inches wide, 20 to 24 inches long, and 6 to 8 inches deep.

The location and height of a box in a stall are the same as for a pail or tub. Do not use a wooden box in a corral.

If desired, a wedge-shaped metal pan set on a wooden shelf can be mounted in a front corner of the stall and pivoted so it can be pulled out for filling and cleaning and then pushed back into the stall and locked in place.

Hay.—Stall rack, manger, or corral rack.

(1) A stall rack may be made of metal, fiber, or plastic. A rack for horses should hold 25 to 30 pounds of hay and a rack for ponies, 10 to 15 pounds. It should be in a corner of the stall. The bottom of the rack should be the same height as the horse or pony at the withers.

Hayracks lessen hay contamination, parasitic infestation, pawing by horses, and hay waste. Racks should open at the bottom so dirt, chaff, and trash may be removed or allowed to fall out. For stallions and broodmares, use high racks to lessen injury hazards.

(2) A wooden manger may be used. It should be 30 inches wide and 24 to 30 inches long for horses and 20 inches square for ponies. Put the manger in the front or in a corner of the stall. The height should be 30 to 42 inches for horses and 20 to 24 inches for ponies.

(3) A corral rack is made of wood. It should be large enough to hold a 1-day supply of hay for the intended number of horses. Put the rack in the fence line of the corral if horses feed from one side only. Put it on high ground if horses feed from both sides.

The top of the rack may be 1 to 2 feet higher than the horses at the withers. Corral hay racks that feed from both sides should be portable.

Minerals.—Box or self-feeder.

A box may be made of wood and a self-feeder may be made of metal or wood. In a stall, the box or self-feeder should be in a corner of the stall and should be the same height as the box or pail used for concentrates.

In a corral, mineral containers should be in a fence corner. The height should be two-thirds the height of the horse at the withers. If a mineral container is in the open, it should be protected from wind and rain. Mineral containers should have two compartments, one for mineral mix and the other for salt.

Water.—Automatic stall waterer, automatic corral waterer, pail, or tank.

(1) Automatic waterers are made of metal. Waterers should be located in a front corner of a stall or in a fence corner of a corral or pasture.

Watering equipment should be designed to facilitate draining and cleaning. Locate waterers a considerable distance from feed containers if possible. Otherwise, horses will carry feed to the waterer or drip water in the concentrate container. A large 20- by 30-inch automatic waterer will accommodate about 25 horses; a two-cup waterer, about 12.

The daily water requirements for horses are: Mature horse, 12 gallons; foal to 2-year-old, and pony, 6 to 8 gallons. In cold areas, waterers should be heated and equipped with thermostatic controls. A satisfactory water temperature range in winter is 40° to 45° F. and in summer 60° to 75°.

Check automatic waterers daily.

(2) A water pail may be made of metal, plastic, or rubber. It should be located in the front of the stall. The height should be two-thirds the height of the horse at the withers, or 38 to 42 inches for horses and 28 to 32 inches for ponies.

(3) A water tank may be concrete or steel. It is used in a corral and should be set in the fence so there are no protruding corners. If it is out in a corral or pasture away from a fence, it should be painted white so the horses can see it at night.

A tank should be 30 by 36 inches high. Allow 1 linear foot of tank space to each five horses. A tank should be equipped with a float valve that is protected from the horses.

Fences for Horses

Good fences (1) maintain boundaries, (2) make horse training and other operations possible, (3) reduce losses to both animals and crops, (4) increase property values, (5) promote better relationships between neighbors, (6) lessen the likelihood of car accidents from animals getting on roads, and (7) add to the attractiveness and distinctiveness of the premises.

Large pastures in which the concentration of horses is not too great may be fenced with woven wire. The mesh of the woven wire fence should be small so horses cannot get their feet through it. Corrals, paddocks, and small pastures require stronger materials. The deficiencies of board and pole fences are: They must be kept painted; they splinter, break, and rot; and they are chewed by horses.

Until recently, conventional metal fences of steel, aluminum, wrought iron, chain link, or cable had one or more deficiencies. But metal fences have greatly improved in recent years.

Show-Rings

Show-rings have no standard or required specifications for ring size, type of construction, or maintenance.

For most purposes, a ring 125 x 250 feet will suffice. However, many good show-rings are either smaller or larger than this. For example, the ring of the famous Devon Horse Show, which is often used for jumpers, is 150 x 300 feet. But the ring at the Spanish Riding School in Vienna is only 59 x 180 feet.

The surface of a show-ring must be resilient and firm to assure proper footing, and it also must be free of dust. In outdoor rings, proper drainage and a good track base are necessary for all-weather use. A ring can be drained by (1) locating it high enough for water to drain away from it and (2) when necessary, installing drainage tile or perforated steel pipe underneath the track, with the perforations on the bottom side of the pipe.

The track usually will be firm if it is covered with a mixture of organic matter and dirt or sand. For example, the ring at the Spanish Riding School is covered with a mixture of two-thirds sawdust and one-third sand. It is sprinkled with water at intervals to keep down the dust.

In many indoor rings in the United States, 6 to 8 inches of tanbark are used on a dirt base. Unless tanbark is watered frequently, it will pulverize and give poor footing. Some rings are covered 18 to 24 inches deep with shavings or sawdust mixed with dirt or sand. Other rings are covered with approximately 9 inches of wood shavings, 2 inches of sawdust, and 4 inches of sand all mixed together and oiled. Salt may be added because it holds moisture when wetted down and reduces dust.

In outdoor rings, organic matter for resilience is sometimes provided by seeding rye or other small grain on the track during the offseason and disking under the green crop.

No matter how good the construction, a show-ring must be maintained. It must be smoothed and leveled, holes must be filled, and when it gets too hard, the ground must be broken. A flexible, chain-type harrow is recommended for show-ring maintenance.

Besides ring size, construction, and maintenance, other factors to be considered are (1) ring layout to facilitate reversing a performance class in a ring that has turf or other decorative material in the center; (2) attractiveness of the ring; (3) spectator seating capacity, comfort, and visibility; (4) nearby parking; and (5) handling the crowd.

M. E. Ensminger

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